Saturday, December 17, 2011

the culture of karibo.

One of the many things I love about the Malagasy culture (and which I hope to bring back with me) is the word karibo- but more importantly, the intention behind it.

Karibo (pronounced kah-REE-boo) is actually a Swahili word but has become part of the dialect of northern Madagascar, known as Sakalava, as have many other words and cultural aspects from east Africa. In fact, about 10% of all Malagasy words are Swahili in origin, the other 90% most closely related to the languages of Borneo, Indonesia and the Philippines.

Since there are only about 7,000 words in the entire Malagasy language (English has more than 12,000 commonly used), many words here have multiple meanings depending on the connotation. Karibo is certainly an example of one of these words.

In Madagascar, when someone approaches a person's house, they call out "Ody!" as a way of letting people know they're there. Always- no matter what you're in the middle of or what time of day it is (yes, I've been woken pre-dawn by someone ody'ing), whether you're sleeping, cleaning, napping, or cooking- your immediate response should be, "Karibo!" It translates to "welcome" in this circumstance. And you really, truly mean it.

This is funny in contrast to the American culture, in which people often hang signs on their door to keep people away (No Solicitors Allowed!) or often just don't answer the door altogether. People in my village swing by my house daily to sell things- and I always give a karibo upon their arrival, even if I have no interest in what they're selling. I usually want what they have anyway: ripe bananas, mangoes, litchis, sweet potatoes, tomatoes, leafy greens. Wouldn't it be amazing if these were sold door-to-door in America instead of vacuums or Tupperware?! In any case, if I'm not interested in buying, a simple "not ready to buy yet" sends people on their way down the path. But to not first give a karibo would be considered extremely rude.

Another way in which karibo is used is during meal times. You must always use karibo to invite people to eat with you- no matter what. This is a cardinal rule in the Malagasy culture and one which used to cause me extreme anxiety when I first moved to my village. Since I live alone, I almost always cook for one. How could I possibly say karibo if I only have enough food for myself?

Often I would remedy my uncertainty by eating  (i.e. hiding) inside my house at every meal. Eventually I couldn't stand it anymore and started eating on my mat outside like everyone else. This took about five months. But still the karibo haunted me. If I say karibo, will every person walking by my front yard yard as I eat want to sit down and help themselves to my single bowl of rice or pasta? What if I don't feel like sharing? Nowadays reflecting on this kind of anxious naivete almost makes me laugh.

Karibo simply means "please join me," as a kind, friendly gesture. When I finally started saying karibo to those passing by during meal times, people were so happy I was starting to learn Malagasy culture and would respond with a cheerful "Mazotoa!" (enjoy). They never ate all my food as I feared, though occasionally some do saunter over to wonder upon my bizarre (non-Malagasy) cooking.

Next time you're making a meal at home, I want you to pick up all your plates and serving bowls, put a mat down in the front yard and cheerfully invite every passer-by to join you for a meal. This may be difficult for those in cold climates, but it offers an excellent opportunity for cultural reflection: how nice would it be if the next time you were hungry and had no food (or didn't feel like cooking) you knew you could simply walk past any neighbor's house and be offered a delicious, nutritious meal, no questions asked? The best translation for karibo may just be: Take off your shoes, grab a spoon and dig in.

It's amazing Americans don't embrace more of a culture of karibo considering the surplus of food we have in our country. This isn't to say there aren't very generous and welcoming Americans out there. It's just that considering how little people have in Madagascar, the karibo is something that offers me constant hope & inspiration.

Just yesterday, I sat at my friend's house after a simple meal of rice and vegetables. A woman and her young son came up selling a heavy load of bananas, having traveled quite far and obviously fatigued. "Karibo!" said my friend straight away, and the mother and son gratefully (and voraciously) ate what little was there of remaining rice and bits left in the pot.

The Malagasy never hesitate to share what they have, and are always happy to converse over a plate of rice. I hope I can bring back this mentality in my own life upon return... so don't be surprised if you show up at my home to visit and are met with a huge hug, a big smile and genuine exclamation of karibo!

Friday, December 16, 2011

ode to a mango.

svelte on the outside,
with sleek green/yellow skin;
you look calm, relaxed.

"let the world ease on by," you seem to coo from your lofty perch.

but upon peeling you back,
your insides explode in a sudden burst of color & sunlight.

you taste as good as you look.

Thursday, December 8, 2011

rainy season, year two.


So now my life is split into two equal parts:
When it’s raining and when it’s not.

When it’s raining,
There is sound above all:
through ten thousand coconut tree branches,
falling onto and -most emphatically- through the leaf-roof over my head,
forming puddles and mud pools and temporary culverts
where they should & should not be,
splattering each ripening mango as they grow fat and impossibly succulent.

When it’s raining,
I do not worry about fetching water
for bathing, for drinking, for washing dishes and pots.

Let it fall, I have nowhere to be.

When it’s not raining,
there are other forces to contend with,
and they often meld into one entity:
heat & boredom. They are the same thing.

There is a certain sound that boredom has here.
Even the birds cannot raise their voices against it.
It is the sound of the absence of sound in a place where
there is always something to hear-

a mournful wailing of a cow,
the ever-boisterous crowing of a rooster,
a crying child,
the pounding of rice against wooden mortar & pestle,
the buzzing of insects that never rest.

When it’s not raining,
and the heatboredom presses down
even those sounds come to rest in the shade.


rainy season brings flowers



click here for last year's blog about the turning of seasons

Wednesday, November 23, 2011

thanksgiving morning.

It's already a thousand degrees outside, the cows are mooing, the roosters are crowing and it's time to head to the sweltering market... not for turkey but for chicken! Turkeys (called kolokoloko in Madagascar) are a bit of a commodity and very expensive. Plus, they'll slaughter, pluck and gut an entire chicken of your choosing right in front of you at the market for a mere $4.00. This Thanksgiving, a group of fellow PCVs will be forgoing the standard Malagasy fare of rice and beans and spending the day cooking up all of our favorite American holiday treats.

We'll have roasted chicken with rosemary and garlic, cheesy mashed potatoes, sweet potato casserole, vegetable bake, shepard's pie, mango chutney (cranberries do not exist but mangoes are falling off trees by the bucketload!), mango crisp, lemon meringue pie and chocolate mousse pie. This may seem like a standard Thanksgiving menu, but for those of us who have been living in Madagascar for nearly two years, it's a culinary dream come true!

This holiday I am especially reminded of all there is to be thankful for. The perspective of being far from friends and family gives me pause to consider how lucky I have been in my life. While I wish I could be with all those I miss dearly this holiday, and certainly am longing for crisp leaves, cool air and the promise of snow, I remain grateful for a great group of friends with whom I can share this day- and this food.

Monday, October 17, 2011

birthday blues.

Looking over the last few blogs, you might think I've been having a miserable time lately. Unfortunately this blog is not the best news either. After a wonderful birthday celebration extravaganza, complete with pool party, cheesy pasta, bread rolls & butter, wine, chocolate cake, gifts, friends, music and a dance party with foamy bubbles shooting down from the ceiling, it happened again... another mugging!

New phone:
261 32 509 6777

Even though many a foamy dance photo was lost forever, I feel grateful that the incident was non-violent. It may seem from my blogs of late that my life here is filled with grotesque intestinal issues and that I'm surrounded by thieving derelicts, but I assure you, I am very happy and fulfilled and enjoying the start of mango season in the peaceful place that is my village home.

Tuesday, September 20, 2011

breaking & entering.

While I was away from my site with Dysentery a couple weeks ago, someone broke into my house. As you can see, the hut I call home isn't exactly a fortress... the thief was able to easily tear down the leaf wall (which faces an empty field) and hop inside.


They stole money, clothes, books (in English, which they can't read), knives, harmonicas, sandals, a bracelet and a couple postcards of sentimental value. Initially, when I walked in and saw that my home had been broken into, I felt quite sad and discouraged. Especially after just coming back from a week of being very sick with an intestinal issue. After making a quick assessment of what was missing, I walked up the sandy hill to a place where there's cell reception and called the Peace Corps Safety & Security officer in Antananarivo. I was impressed with his professionalism and concern for my physical and emotional well-being. He made all the necessary phone calls and by the following morning, the regional director was at my doorstep with two armed police officers and the district mayor.


Though their "investigation" was tediously pointless at best, I appreciate the effect their presence had in my village: my house was repaired immediately and the teenage boy that stole my stuff ran away from home. Even the gaping holes that have been in my leaf roof  for six months have been patched... just in time for the rainy season. Though the police may not have actually accomplished that much during their eight hours in my village, other than asking me if I wanted a husband and enjoying a free lunch & beers (they insisted I buy), it was yet another interesting cultural experience. At least, that type of perspective is what keeps me keepin' on, through all the trials and tribulations that make up my life here in Madagascar.

Thursday, September 1, 2011

dysentery.

It was about time I got sick. I have had nearly perfect intestinal (and otherwise) health throughout the entire 17 months I've lived in Madagascar. Which, for a Peace Corps Volunteer, is pretty much a miracle. Just a few weeks ago as some other PCVs were complaining about their host of medical disorders, from Giardia to Typhoid, I was boasting about my perfect health. Guess I forgot to knock on wood: Dysentery.

According to Wikipedia, Dysentery is defined as an inflammatory disorder, especially affecting the colon, that results in severe diarrhea containing mucus and/or blood in the feces with fever and abdominal pain. Dysentery results from viral, bacterial, protozoan or parasitic infestations, which typically reach the large intestine through ingestion of contaminated food or water, etc.

According to me, Dysentery is simply two long weeks of the above symptoms, with a whole lot of waiting to see what's going to happen, spending way too much time on the internet and wanting to go back to the peace and quiet of my village life. Right now I'm on two types of antibiotics and hoping to be on the mend soon.

I thank the universe for putting my bombastic ego back in place.